Shirts · Est. 1972
The collardecides it
Lapels got wider and ties followed. The collar had to change with them, and most men’s shirts have not caught up.
Spread collars are back because lapels and ties got wider. A narrow point collar under a full lapel looks out of proportion, which is why five-year-old shirts suddenly look dated. Pin and tab collars are the smaller, sharper alternative. Fabric matters as much here — poplin and fine oxford over heavy twill. Fitted in Arlington.
Why your shirts look dated
Proportion, not quality
The shirts have not changed. What changed is everything worn with them. Lapels widened, ties followed, and the narrow point collar that suited the previous decade now sits awkwardly under both.
A spread collar balances a fuller lapel and gives a larger tie knot somewhere to sit. Worn open, it holds its shape across the chest instead of collapsing inward, which is why it also works better without a tie.
This is the cheapest correction available in menswear. Replacing three shirts costs less than a jacket and does more for how current a wardrobe looks.
Collars
What each one is for
- Spread
- The default now. Balances a wider lapel, accommodates a fuller knot, and holds its shape worn open. If you buy one collar style, buy this.
- Semi-spread
- The safer middle ground. Works with a tie or without, and with narrower lapels as well as wide.
- Pin collar
- A small bar through the collar points that lifts the knot slightly. Sharp, deliberate, and best on a smaller tie knot.
- Tab collar
- Same idea with a hidden tab. Quieter than a pin and easier to wear daily.
- Point collar
- Not wrong, but currently out of proportion with wider lapels. Keep them for narrower jackets rather than replacing everything.
Fabric
What survives a Texas working day
- Poplin
- Smooth, light, and the most comfortable option for most of the year here. Wrinkles more than twill and is worth it.
- Fine oxford
- More texture, more durability, and it softens with age. The best choice for a shirt worn without a tie.
- Royal oxford
- Heavier than fine oxford with a subtle sheen. Dressier than it sounds and holds a collar shape well.
- Linen and blends
- For genuine heat. Wrinkles freely, which is the trade — a linen-cotton blend gives most of the coolness with less creasing.
- What to avoid
- Heavy twills and anything with a high synthetic content. Both hold heat, and in this climate you notice within an hour.
Common questions
Dress shirts, answered
Are spread collars in style?
Yes, and the reason is proportion rather than fashion. Lapels and tie widths have both increased, and a narrow point collar looks unbalanced beneath them. A spread collar gives a fuller knot room and holds its shape when worn open.
What is a pin collar?
A collar with a small bar or pin passing through both points beneath the tie knot, lifting it slightly and holding the collar in a precise arch. It is a deliberate, slightly formal look and works best with a smaller knot.
What collar works best without a tie?
A spread or semi-spread in a cloth with some body, such as fine oxford. The collar needs enough structure to stand up on its own — a soft point collar collapses inward the moment the tie comes off, which is what makes an open shirt look untidy.
What shirt fabric is best for Texas summers?
Poplin for most days, and a linen-cotton blend when it is genuinely hot. Both breathe far better than heavy twill. Avoid high synthetic content, which traps heat noticeably within an hour.
Should I replace all my point-collar shirts?
No. Keep them for narrower-lapelled jackets, where the proportion still works, and add two or three spread collars for everything else. Replacing three shirts is the cheapest way to make an existing wardrobe look current.
How long does a custom shirt take?
Four to six weeks, the same as our custom tailoring. Collar shape, cuff, and length are all specified at the fitting, which is exactly where off-the-rack shirts compromise.
Three shirts, four weeks
Book with Patrick or Austin
The cheapest way to make a wardrobe look current.
Book with PatrickBook with Austin
100 S. West Street, Arlington, Texas 76010
Mon–Sat 10am–5pm · Closed Sunday
(817) 265-1116